Nagaland House

Squeezed between Bhutan, China, and Myanmar, the northeast Indian state of Nagaland is renowned for its various tribal groups and the occasionally violent tensions that have arisen between the various indigenous peoples and the Indian central government. Accordingly, it is a land foreign to many Indians, including PJ and her family.

The interior boasts some Naga tribal decorations

Naga pork, and more specifically the Naga style of pork rib preparation, has gained some fame in Delhi thanks to the state's food outpost in Dilli Haat. Unfortunately, our meal fell far short of any expectations we held upon arriving.

We were presented a menu of various pork, fish, chicken, mutton, and veg dishes. But upon beginning to place our order, the waiter informed us that, in fact, only the Naga style pork and chicken thalis were available, with the other options given as traditional "Indian style" fish or veg thalis. All other thirty dishes on the menu have to be ordered at least a day in advance. So, with few options available and eager to try Naga food, we opted for a pork and chicken thali.

The spread

The thalis, served family style, consisted of the main dish alongside boiled okra, yellow dal, white rice, and a chutney consisting of spicy peppers, mashed eggplant, and spices.

The dal proved pretty typical and the white rice slightly stale. The Naga pork was doused in red chili but despite the spice, the boiled preparation retained the gamey flavor of meat. Further along the gamey spectrum was the boiled chicken, which contained a watery gravy and a bit of chili thrown in, both to little avail.

The only real standout was the garnish, spicy yet interestingly textured. Unfortunately, the poor quality of the main dishes alongside the poor service couldn't be overcome.

A spicy, tasty garnish

One unexpected highlight worth noting, however, was the non-alcoholic Kashmir Chinar Apple Beer—notably a product of Greater Delhi and not Nagaland. We saw one of the canteen's regulars downing one and, intrigued, managed to convince the waiter to give us one as well. Distinct in its taste, it covered the meats' flavor and provided a sweet ending to the meal.

The surprisingly tasty yet decidedly un-Naga apple "beer"

Overall, Nagaland House's canteen disappointed. It seems as though the restaurant has seen better days and, judging by the quality of the state's Dilli Haat stand—which, rumor has it, is run by the same subcontractor as the state house's canteen—perhaps greatness will return in the future. For now, however, we'd recommend giving it a pass.

Price of lunch for two: ₹460

29 Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Rd.
New Delhi, Delhi 110011

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