Karnataka Sangha

The South-Indian food at the Karnataka Food Centre (or KFC, as some regulars lovingly call it) is some of the best-known state canteen fare in Delhi. The lines, so we were told, can be long at meal times, so we opted for an early dinner around 4:30pm, well before most Indians would ever consider consuming anything more than afternoon tea.

The green entrance sets the tone for a culinary journey to the lush south

While a fair number of the tables were filled, we were able to find a spot inside the restaurant upon arrival. Immediately, the setting of this canteen strikes its diners. Set just off a main avenue, it nonetheless uses tress, other shrubbery, and floor-to-ceiling windows to strike a feeling of being amidst the overwhelming greenery of Karnataka.

The nice ambiance (and a bitter jamun juice)

The service was snappy. From a menu filled with familiar South-Indian dishes (as well as two thalis only available at peak meal time), we ordered a paper dosa (an extra long, extra thin crisp crepe made from lentils and fermented rice batter), a Mysore masala dosa (a more normal-sized crisp crepe smeared with a spicy paste and filled with seasoned potatoes), and panchatara uttapam platter (five mini-sized varieties of savory-topped pancakes made from a batter similar to dosas). Also curious about jamun, the in-season North-Indian bitter plum, I ordered a juice squeezed from the fruit.

The spread (minus the too-big-to-fit-in-the-photo paper dosa)

Our expectations were high based on all the raving reviews we'd heard. While we didn't find the food to be extraordinary, it was satisfactory: not quite up to what we had hoped but still hitting the spot when one is in the mood for South-Indian standards.

More specifically, the paper dosa wasn't thin and crispy enough. Similarly, the Mysore chutney wasn't as savory and the masala potato filling not as spicy as one might hope, but still easily enjoyable. The uttapam tasting platter, however, was a nice way to try daring varieties of the dish of which one might otherwise not order a whole serving, and we found them to be enjoyable. The dishes also came accompanied by a spicy red chutney which added a nice kick to the uttapams.

The large yet not quite adequately thin paper dosa

For dessert we ordered Rava Kesari, a classic South-Indian sweet made from semolina and (lots of) sugar. It was moist and perfectly sweet—a nice end to the meal.

The simple, pleasing Rava Kesari

We left Karnataka Food Centre satisfied but not blown away. Its menu is filled with safe South-Indian favorites but perhaps could do well to add a few more lesser-known Karnataka dishes.

Price of meal for two: ₹545

Sector 12, Rao Tularam Marg,
Near Gupta Service Station and Moti Bagh Metro
R. K. Puram,
New Delhi, Delhi 110022

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